HAIR & BEAUTY
It's more than just styling
If you want to train in an exciting and growing industry then we have a wide range of courses for you to choose from.
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Get a trial—to avoid error.
Once you’ve found a makeup artist, set up a makeup and hair trial. Many artists include a trial in their makeup package price. Having a trial two to three months before the wedding is ideal, says Mehwish Khan, a Chicago-based professional makeup artist, whose credits include Bollywood’s Hero and the indie film Creating Karma.
Bridal makeup by artist Shalini Vasisht (pictured, right bottom).
“You should bring a matching purse, veil or shirt from your wedding dress if you’ve got one,” Khan advises. “Also bring pictures from magazines or Web sites that appeal to you so the artist has an idea of your taste. A little makeup for one bride is a lot for another.”
Don’t wear black on the trial day, adds Ismail. “Indian colors are bright, and wearing black won’t give the right results.” She also suggests bringing some of the accessories you will wear.
There is one duo synonymous with stunning South Asian style: Comprised of photographer Ather Zahoor and makeup artist/photographer Shahzad Raza, this team has styled and photographed a bevy of South Asian glitterati, including Pakistani models Vaneeza Ahmad and Aaminah Haq and Bollywood starlets Bipasha Basu and Riya Sen. Non-desi clients include former Miss World and Miss Universe runner-ups.
The pair from Sheikhupura, Pakistan, emerged onto the scene 13 years ago with their first photo shoot of famed Pakistani actress Zeba Bakhtyar. “Photography enticed us because even when we were studying, we appreciated aesthetic beauty and always wanted to somehow capture and preserve it,” says Raza. Their wish has certainly been granted: Since then, models and actresses alike clamor for the duo’s time. In fact, model Iman Ali prefers to work solely with Ather/Shahzad and credits them with the launch of her career.
Says Pakistani fashion journalist Zurain Imam of the pair’s work: “They are highly stylized art tableau montages with dizzied models lounged languorously in sumptuous settings; or regally upright like maharanis or courtesans; or in acrobatic modeling stances outside in an open field or under an oak tree. The makeup is perfectly coordinated to the outfits and the setting and texture are also expertly connected to the texture and colors of the clothes.”
But desi brides have perhaps benefited the most from skills. A few years ago, the pair opened up a salon and studio in Lahore; brides book far in advance to have Ather/Shahzad do their wedding makeup and photography. They frequently travel to Europe and North America for weddings, albeit for a pretty penny. While they will not disclose their rates, preferring that clients contact them for individual quotes, several brides have hinted that their rates for going abroad reach into the thousands.
For more information or to book.
Bollywood celebrity makeup and hair expert Shalini Vasisht, who’s primped actresses such as Aishwarya Rai, Sushmita Sen and Sharmila Tagore, suggests taking a digital camera to the trial. “It’s a good way to see how the makeup looks in pictures and for your own reference when deciding on an artist,” she says.
A look featuring strong eyes and light lips by Dimple Shah.
3. Skip the dreaded “cakey” effect.
“The whole trick to makeup is not to look overdone,” says Hollywood celebrity makeup artist and beauty expert Shalini Vadhera, whose Global Goddess Beauty makeup line includes top sellers at Sephora and Victoria’s Secret. “Pick one feature and make that pop, like dramatic eyes and light lips, or red lips and soft, champagne gold eyes.”
“The pancake look is gone. We put nothing on the face or use sheer bases if the skin is good,” adds Raza. Vasisht agrees: “When the face starts to look chalky and opaque, that’s a sign of too much makeup. The right amount of makeup shows in pictures as translucent skin and well-balanced eyes and lips.”
The amount of makeup that’s right for you should be determined at the trial. Though some makeup artists suggest coming to the trial sans makeup, others, like Vadhera, suggests coming in wearing your everyday amount of makeup. “I always tell them to come in the way they usually look so I can gauge how much makeup they would be comfortable with and see ways I can play it up differently. If they don’t use any makeup at all, I don’t want to scare them with layers of it.”
Natural and dewy makeup on Pakistani model Aaminah Haq by Ather/Shahzad.
4. Focus on fabulous, glowing skin.
Let’s face it: Makeup is only as good as its canvas. “Start with a skin care regimen almost up to a month before. Don’t try anything new too soon before the wedding in case your skin reacts poorly,” says Vadhera. The same applies to threading and bleaching, which should be done at least a week in advance to avoid any rashes.
For that healthy, natural glow, exfoliate and moisturize regularly, suggests Khan. “I cannot stress this enough. The better your skin, the less makeup you’ll need.” Start from the inside out by drinking plenty of water.
A basic spa facial is great for cleaning out the pores, says Saima Bukhari, owner of Glow, a salon and day spa in Dallas. “Try a mini microderm with a facial or add a cooling oxygen treatment to help your skin glow. Both of these services require little downtime,” she says. If your skin requires a little more, Bukhari suggests a chemical peel or deep medical microdermabrasion, which should be done a few months in advance. You’ll experience full benefits if it’s done in a series of six (just consult your aesthetician beforehand!).
New to facials? Know that they may cause irritation to sensitive skin types, so start early to know how your skin will react—at least two months in advance and every 28 days (when the skin starts to shed), suggests Ismail.
5. Match makeup colors to your face—not your clothes.
“Many South Asian brides have the misconception that their makeup needs to match their outfit, but how many of us really look good in red-orange lipstick?” says Khan.
Left: Soft, natural makeup by Afsana Karim. Right: A flawless look by duo Ather Shahzad.
Vasisht agrees: “The trend is for the entire look to blend and be of same palette, not the colors of the outfit.” For instance, a red or bright magenta lengha can be worn with gold and bronze eye makeup and plum lip gloss. Softer outfit colors, like peach or pink, are complemented by pearly or coral eyes and rosy shades of pink for the lips, she says. And you don’t have to stick to the reds and golds, adds Raza. Branch out by considering greens, blues or purples.
One color desi brides usually miss: Pink. “I never see Indian brides in pink, and it’s so flattering on our skin tone,” says Vadhera. Try her Global Goddess “Chowrasta” blush; for deeper skin tones, use the “Sattva” blush shade.
6. Play up the eyes.
When it comes to wedding makeup, the eyes have it. Use primer and, of course, waterproof mascara to add length. For more drama, some brides use fake eyelashes. But if you’ve never worn fake ones before, your wedding day is not the day to try it out, warns Vadhera. “I definitely don’t recommend using a full set if you’re having a summer wedding,” she adds, due to a higher chance of them peeling off.
Dramatic eyes by Afsana Karim.
If you really want to try falsies, get individual lashes put in the corner of your eyes for a much more natural look. But make sure one of your bridesmaids is carrying an emergency tube of glue—just in case.
Afsana Karim, a London-based makeup artist who worked as a model before becoming a heavyweight on the South Asian bridal scene, urges brides to “go wild and try something different!” The latest trends include “dramatic eyes, lots of color, long lashes and nude, glossy lips. “The key to making your eyes look dramatic,” she says, “lies in the Carefully apply the pencil in the whole inner eye and around the eyes. L’Oreal’s black mascara is perfect to complete the eyelashes. To finish the look, use your fingertips to smudge the eye pencil for that smoky look.”
Bridal makeup by Dimple Shah.
7. Keep essentials handy for quick touch-ups.
No matter how great your makeup looks, you’ll probably need some fine-tuning throughout your day. Vasisht suggests creating an emergency kit containing compact powder to dab on when you experience shine overkill; lipgloss for touch-ups, and a Q-tip for kohl or mascara smudges.
8. Get your nails done—but not always in red.
If you’re more traditional, Vadhera suggests dark reds for nails that are short and freshly manicured, but French pink can be a much more appealing alternative. “It’s the prettiest on our skin tone and gives a more finished look,” she says.
9. Get gorgeous hair.
Updos look neater for the wedding day and will show off your neck and jewelry better, says Ismail. She believes leaving your hair down can get messy, especially if you’re having your wedding in the summer or planning on dancing later in the night. Sport a more casual look for the next day or at the less formal events. And if you can plan ahead enough, opt for a lighter veil. “The heavier it is, the harder it is to work with and can weigh your hair down,” says Ismail. Of course, always opt for what’s best for you. If you know that loose hair looks good on you, don’t be afraid to break the rules.
Bride Ayesha Khan Bangash by Ather/Shahzad.
Always wash your hair the night or day before—not the day you’re getting it done. “Super clean and silky hair is hard to work with because the hairspray won’t hold. If you have oily hair, take a shower early in the morning, way before you’re getting it done,” says Ismail.
Toronto-based makeup artist Dimple Shah says she likes to use hair extensions for some brides. “They’re great if a bride’s hair is too thin or too short or if she’s looking into an elaborate style where it’s needed.” The price can range from $25 up to $100, depending on the type of extensions. Talk with your stylist about what would work for you.
Finally, good hair care is essential, so start early. Use the proper protective serums if you’re using heat tools, and get regular trims to avoid split ends. If you’re planning on coloring your hair, do it at least two months in advance, suggests Vadhera.
10. Relax and enjoy your day!
Easier said than done, right? But remember, this is your time to pamper yourself, so get a massage, take up yoga, rest well and eat well. “I ask my brides to try not to get edgy because it will show up on their face—and no makeup can hide that irritation.” Adds Karim: “Focus on enhancing your best features and feeling comfortable and beautiful within your self. It’s your big day—just enjoy it!”
Shades
